Jing Yaa Tang

Alan Yau comes to Beijing

The Opposite House's Chinese restaurant serves excellent roast duck, but how is the rest of the food here?

The Opposite House’s Chinese restaurant Jing Yaa Tang is a collaboration between the hotel, and London-based restaurateur Alan Yau. Stylistically very different from the rest of the hotel, it very much feels like a classic Alan Yau establishment.

The first thing you notice, is that the room is completely different from the industrial chic of the Opposite House’s other restaurants such as Sureno, or Bei back in the day. This has the classic Alan Yau colour scheme, and materials that you also find at Hakkasan or Yauatcha. If the tables were taken away, this could double as a upscale night club without any problems.

The food here, however, is very different from the hotel’s previous restaurants. There are no fusion versions of Peking Duck or Gong Bao Chicken. Instead, the restaurant serves some of the best duck in town. It is up there with Da Dong, Made in China, and Quanjude, and reason enough to to come here for.

The other dishes, however, are mostly fairly uninspiring. An exception to the rule is the Sichuanese mouth-watering chicken. Technically, this is faultless, with juicy, tender chicken, and spot-on seasoning, making it an absolute delight. In the same vein, substantial scallops come with black bean sauce and tofu, are no less well made. The sauce is strong enough to give the dish enough character, but doesn’t overpower the scallops’ delicate flavours.

Unfortunately, the majority of dishes on the menu is not quite that successful. The pork neck claypot consists mainly of ginger, and garlic, with a handful of thin slivers of dry, tough meat hiding in it. Cold starters seem to come straight out of the fridge, making it difficult to taste much. The lack of flavour is also apparent in the restaurant’s fried rice, which just tastes like bland, very dry rice.

It is difficult to make up your mind about Jing Yaa Tang. On the one hand, it serves excellent roast duck, but on the other, the menu is mostly dull, and uninspired. Add to this, the nightclub-like design, and you have a restaurant that feels like it lacks a clear concept to follow.

Jing Yaa Tang

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