One Harbour Road is a restaurant that is totally overlooked by the Michelin Guide in Hong Kong. Strangely enough it is considered to be one of the best Cantonese restaurants in the city.
If the red books oversees One Harbour Road, the locals seem to rate it higher than most other Cantonese restaurants in the city. After a meal here, the reasons are quite obvious. First of all, the cooking is a little more delicate and elegant than at most other high-end restaurants. In this city which sees quite a fair amount of MSG thrown in here and there, the clean and pure flavours in dishes such as a perfectly cooked garoupa with black bean sauce are quite refreshing. This dish showcases remarkably well what makes One Harbour Road a special restaurant. It showcases ingredients of the highest quality, superb technique and sensible seasoning.
Other classic dishes such as the barbecued suckling pig are among the finest renditions of this dish you can find. The meat has more moisture and a delicate and tender texture that contrasts beautifully with the fragile and crunchy skin. The same goes for the char siu, which is tender, juicy and features a beautifully balanced glaze.
Even seemingly simple dishes such as a seafood broth are of amazing clarity and purity. It is incredible to see how the chefs here manage to bind such complex flavours in such a clear and light broth. The Chinese are masters of soups, and this is definitely a place that will let you understand why.
The Grand Hyatt Hong Kong features two superb restaurants, the Steakhouse and One Harbour Road. Both stick clearly to what they do, and are at the top of their game in their respective categories. For this reason, you can only hope that the Michelin will come to reason and give this at least 2 stars in the next edition.