Beijing is a city that is full of surprises. Having a restaurant run by a three Michelin-starred chef located in a shopping mall therefore doesn’t particular shock anyone here. After years of running a successful operation at Parkview Green, Opera Bombana is now on better form than ever before.
Run by chef Marino D’Antonio, General manager Alexis Movio and Restaurant Manager Frank Hao, the experience of eating here feels remarkably complete and warm. The service is some of the best in all of Beijing and the food has massively improved from the early days.
Don’t come expecting demonstrations of culinary wizardry, but rather well prepared and carefully seasoned dishes that often feature luxury products such as truffles, lobster, caviar and the likes. A dish of spaghetti and langoustines is superb, with a rich sauce made from the carcasses of the shellfish and perfectly cooked pasta. A bit of zucchini adds bite to the plate and brings everything into balance.
Even better is a dish of seared foie gras and black truffle. The liver is of perfect consistency: firm, yet delicate, not overly fatty and carefully timed. Combined with the earthy truffles and a bit of bitterness from radicchio leaves, this is an excellent late winter dish to make use of the last European black truffles.
Truffles play a big role on the menu here, just the same as at Otto e Mezzo in Hong Kong. A classic dish that is served with some variation is a piece of meat with an assortment of vegetables and a truffled potato puree. The whole is then topped with a liberal dose of truffles, making for an effective and very satisfying use of the black diamond.
Despite being located in a shopping mall, Opera Bombana is without doubt one of Beijing’s top Italian restaurants. The food, service and décor are excellent and make this a mainstay of the city’s dining scene.