Pomp and circumstance

One of Hong Kong's longest-standing fine dining restaurants, Petrus is looking to find its identity

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Petrus is one of Hong Kong’s longest standing grand restaurants. Opened more than 20 years ago, it has managed to stay at the top of its game ever since. The food, however, is very different from what one might expect to find here.

Petrus’ décor is anything but subtle. It is a restaurant where gold, marble, and chandeliers reign, and give you an idea of the grand restaurants of yesteryear, whilst looking over the very contemporary skyline of the Victoria Harbour.

This contrast is remarkable, but it is only one of the things that make this a restaurant that could only exist in Hong Kong. As the name suggests, Petrus’ wine list is of course extensive, but what is most interesting is that the wines by the glass are of a very high level: producers such as Ramonet, Mortet, et al. can all be had by the glass!

Petrus’ food is a lot simpler than you might expect. This is product-driven food that is not out there to impress with its technical wizardry, but rather with solid flavours, and carefully chosen produce. A perfect example for this is turbot cooked with summer vegetables, in a perfectly balanced, light sauce. The fish is timed masterfully, and has that firm, and meaty flesh that makes it so prized. Whilst this is certainly not the most gelatinous piece of turbot, it works perfectly with the accompanying vegetables and sauce.

Equally good is chicken served with morels, and chicken jus. Again, this is a relatively simple dish, but the careful preparation, and uncomplicated composition make it a pleasure to eat. There is nothing pretentious about food such as this, which is refreshing in a city such as Hong Kong.

The desserts at Petrus are the only part of the meal, which is a little more complex, and where the kitchen shows what it is capable of. A refreshing citrus-based dessert is the perfect example of the sort of plate that is ideal to finish a long menu: refreshing, complex, and made up of a multitude of textures. There is nothing heavy about it, and yet its flavours are intense, and very present.

Petrus is a restaurant that has been around for a long time. A real institution in Hong Kong, it continues to serve food that  is very solid, and will please fans of classic cookery without any doubt.


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