The Boss

Underground dim sum

Located in a non-descript basement in Central, The Boss serves fine Cantonese cuisine

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The Boss is a restaurant you could easily miss. Located on Hong Kong’s Queen’s Road Central, all there is, is a little entrance that leads you down to the basement, where the restaurant serves up fine Cantonese cuisine.

The unassuming entrance in the very heart of Central in Hong Kong already gives you an idea of the d├ęcor here. The dining room is simple, and hardly worth mentioning. What rapidly made the Boss’ reputation in Hong Kong, however, is the food.

Priding itself with serving MSG-free Cantonese cuisine, using fresh produce, the restaurant quickly became a favourite among the city’s foodies, and media. A meal here demonstrates that there is a lot to like at the Boss. The dim sum is carefully made, using good produce. Har Kau for instance features beautifully textured prawns, and delicate pastry around them. Similarly, the char siu bao are fluffy, yeasty, and stuffed with plenty of honey-roast porky goodness. This is not the best dim sum in Hong Kong, but certainly very capable.

Chicken is one of the things the Boss does very well. Deep-fried, it is served with a shrimp sauce they make in-house. Pieces of perfectly timed poultry come with an addictively moreish sauce that seems to intensify the flavours at hand. Slightly more diet-friendly is baked chicken with rock salt. This is one of the classical preparations in town, and the version here is very capable: the chicken fat from the skin giving plenty of flavour, and the meat itself moist, and juicy. This is delicious comfort food that is hard to fault.

The Boss is a restaurant that does a fine job of serving carefully prepared Cantonese classics. Whilst it is not playing on the level of the city’s very best restaurants, its food does not leave a lot of room for criticism.


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