The Publican in Chicago is the kind of restaurant that you’d love to have in your neighbourhood. Big communal tables, and hearty food create a warm atmosphere that make this the perfect spot for a simple meal.
The thing about this restaurant is that it is hard to dislike. What they do here is simple, unpretentious and honest. You have families coming here, foodies and couples. The emphasis that chef Brian Huston places on seafood and pork dishes really characterises the cuisine here. However, the most exciting element in the Publican’s cuisine arguably is the use of bone marrow.
The best example of this is one of the greatest and simplest dishes one can think of: Bone marrow with toast. Not difficult to make, it is one of those comforting dishes you’d like to see in more places.
The same goes for scrambled eggs. They are so rich and luscious that even someone like Fernand Point would enjoy them. To make the point that the menu at the Publican is riddled with comfort food, one ought to mention the pork scratchings that are strongly spiced and irresistible.
That is what makes the Publican a great restaurant. It does things well, without being pretentious. You go here to have bold food, well prepared and seasoned and to enjoy the warm atmosphere that reigns here. Nothing more, nothing less.