What is striking with Steinheuer’s cooking is the delicious flavour profile that his dishes display. There are no particularly daring combinations or the like, but the constructions on his plates make sense and are deeply satisfying. It’s the kind of comfort food that transcends this appellation somewhat. A John Dory is a perfect example of this. Served with squid, lemon, capers and gem lettuce, the dish balances richness and acidity beautifully. All of the garnishes work perfectly with the fish, but it is the fish itself that steals the show. Of superb quality, it has a captivating texture that only the best pieces of John Dory have.
Even more impressive is a classic of Steinheuer. A loin of venison with pointed cabbage, and berries. The latter, commonly served with game in Germany and Austria, are used very carefully so that they don’t overpower the other elements. This is particularly enjoyable, as some chefs simply add too much sweetness on game dishes in Germany. The sauce that goes with the juicy and tender meat has enough power and concentration to counter the slight sweetness and gives the vegetal cabbage a perfect partner to play with. This is masterful cooking, using German tradition and elevating it to something of a different league altogether.
Another such most satifsying and easy to love dish is a dessert made with plums. This is particularly interesting as it takes a classic German plum cake and turns it into a nuanced and complex dessert. Not too sweet, the plums have sufficient freshness to counter the pretty rich accompanying elements. It shows, just as the other dishes do, that Steinheuer is a chef who knows his trade and approaches his dishes with a bit more intelligence than some of his colleagues elsewhere.
If one can say one thing about restaurants in Germany in general it is the positive development that the very top end has received more and more media attention. However, it are hidden gems such as this one that simply await your discovery. For here you will find food that is not only technically impeccable, but also delicious and immediately appealing.